Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Glover's Atoll, Belize

Glover's Atoll was the ultimate reason we chose to go to Belize.

We are not the type of people who can spend a week sitting in a resort, so when we began to research Belize as an option for using up our Aeroplan points, the first thing I began to look for was something to do in Belize.

Neither of us are divers so that eliminated the main activity in Belize. So when I stumbled upon the Island Expeditions website with its photos of sea kayaks on calm turquoise waters and crisp white safari tents on white sand beaches, I was sold.

Since we are also not big into guided group tours, the Glover's Getaway & Rental Package was an easy choice for us. The package involved two nights at Island Expedition's private base camp on the stunning Glover's Atoll followed by six nights of self-guided kayaking and camping on Belize's barrier reef and cayes.

The first three days of guided kayaking and snorkelling would provide the perfect introduction to tropical sea kayaking before we were set out on our own.

Arriving on Glover's Atoll, we were given a quick tour of the island and then shown to our private tent to unpack and settle in.

Southwater Caye on Glover's Atoll


We could of chosen any of the luxurious five star resorts in Belize, but I was completely giddy at the chance to stay in a white safari tent. Although who wouldn't be excited to stay in a tent with a view like this...





We weren't given much time to relax before they loaded us all into kayaks for a refresher course in kayak safety including practicing wet exits and entries in the lagoon beside the resort. Dave and I were glad to get the chance to practice in a double kayak - plus it was lots of fun to practice in water that was warmer then the pool at UofC were I had done a rescue clinic before we left!




After a lunch of conch soup, fresh bread, salad, cake and fruit, we headed out on the kayaks for an afternoon of snorkelling at a patch reef.


The water was warm, clear and calm. The corals were stunning shades of yellow, red, purple and orange. The fish were bright and plentiful. It was one of the most beautiful reefs I have ever seen.



After some hammock surfing and beers, we were treated to a fantastic dinner of grilled snapper.






Following dinner, we headed to the bar at the dive resort that shared the island. The bar was located on a dock over the water and had a flood light pointed in to the water so you could see the giant tarpon, barracuda and nurse sharks swim by. The resident resort dogs were trained to bark every time a shark swam up. Amazingly they could distinguish between the fish and the sharks.



The next morning the whole camp was up with the sun to do yoga in the sand. After a hearty breakfast, we once again headed out to a patch reef for some snorkelling.


The one couple in our "weekender group" had brought along a spear gun and wanted to try to catch a lion fish. Our guide easily located a large lion fish for him to catch, along with a snapper. Returning to shore, he showed us how to safely filet the highly poisonous lion fish and then served us the lion fish with lunch. From the water to the plate in under an hour - can't get any fresher!




After lunch we paddled a couple miles across the atoll to a reef for more snorkelling. Afterwards we rigged sails on the kayaks and rode the wind back to camp. It almost seemed like cheating to sit there while the kayak gilded quickly across the water. However it provided a great opportunity to view the lagoon below - including a large nurse shark!



Dinner was a massive feast of BBQ pork and chicken, roast jackfish, vegetables, rice, potato salad and cake. Following dinner, we were treated to a bonfire with Garifuna drumming and dancing.



The next morning, once again, we were up early for yoga, this time on the dock. With the sun and sea breeze, it was truly one of the most zen yoga experiences I have ever had.




 



Following breakfast, we headed out for one last snorkel before we had to pack our bags. They fed us one more amazing lunch, before we had to catch the boat to leave the island.

The Weekender Group

It was a very bitter sweet to leave the island. Glover's tops the list as one of our all time favourite places and we were sad to have to leave... but we were excited to get started on the next leg of our sea kayak adventure.

  



Amy

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Monday, May 20, 2013

Dangriga, Belize

After three days relaxing in Placencia, it was time to move on. With the crazy heat, Dave began lobbying that we catch another flight but quickly changed his mind when he realized the flight was $100 BZE and the bus only $10 BZE.

We caught Ritchie's Bus northbound towards Dangriga - an old school bus painted bright blue and purple. Like most local buses we encounter in our travels, there are no official "bus stops", the bus just stops where ever along the highway people please, which sometimes means you are stopping every 10 feet. Although travel was slow, it was enjoyable to people-watch and the driver kept us entertained with a constant string of Reggae concert DVDs.

Ritchie's Bus

After about 90 minutes of driving through vast orange and banana orchards, we reached Dangriga. Dangriga is a lot poorer and rougher then the typical tourist destinations in Belize. We would really not have chosen to go to Dangriga expect for the fact that it is the base for the boats out to the Southern Cayes.

We spent the afternoon exploring the town and collecting some provisions. I always have so much fun exploring foreign grocery stores.

Peanut Punch - Brings out the Man in You!

The town did not have anything in terms of traditional tourist sights but it was neat to experience a traditional Belizean/Garifuna community.

Might as well write it like you say it



Bright and early the next morning, we caught the boat out of Dangriga towards the Cayes and our next adventure...



... on Glover's Reef Atoll.

Arriving at Glover's

Amy
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Friday, May 17, 2013

Placencia, Belize

As I hinted in my last post, Dave and I just returned from two fabulous weeks in Belize and Guatemala.

The trip was partially to celebrate our fifth wedding anniversary at the end of May. When I returned from Fiji three years ago, I had Dave promise that we would go there for our fifth wedding anniversary since it topped both of our lists for all-time favourite places but we had each travelled there separately. As we got closer to actually planning the trip, we realized it was a long way to travel for a beach vacation plus I had a significant balance of Aeroplan points that were about to expire but not enough to get us to Fiji.

So I began to search for destinations where my points would get us... and found Belize.

(If you are looking to fly on points, Belize is a fantastic option. The flights are daily through Houston with very reasonable flight times and stop overs compared to Hawaii and the rest of the Caribbean. For example, had we chosen to go to St Lucia, the flights would have taken us from Calgary to Edmonton to Vancouver to Toronto to St Lucia. Ridiculous!)

We flew to Belize City via Houston. Our flight arrived late afternoon, too late to catch a bus on to anywhere, so we opted to catch a flight on TropicAir to Placencia at the southern end of Belize.

The flight was on a tiny 12 seater plane.

Our plane!

My parents had forewarned us that one passenger actually gets to sit in the seat beside the pilot so when they made the call for boarding Dave, who is normally the absolutely last passenger to board a plane, ran to the front of the line to make sure he got that seat!



The flight flew 15 minutes to Dangriga, landed to unload passengers, then flew 15 minutes further down the coast to Placencia. It was completely worthwhile to pay the extra for the flights simply to see the coast line and barrier reef from the air.


I found it a little unnerving being able to see the pilot in action though... each time we got a couple hundred feet in the air, he would switch the plane into autopilot and then proceed to sit with his hands in his pockets until we were on the approach for landing. I am well aware that most of the time planes are flown on autopilot but it is still unsettling to be in such a small plane and see the pilot sitting with his hands off the steering!

Look ma no hands!

Once we arrived in Placencia, we made our way to the Seaspray Hotel and to our room right on the beach! Not even 30 feet from the water!


Our room

View from our room

And then we went into vacation mode...

The next three days were spent swimming, reading, sleeping, eating and walking. This is one of the first vacations Dave and I have ever planned around doing nothing and we took full advantage of it!

The sidewalk

Where I spent the majority of my days



Rumfish Restaurant


DeTatch Restaurant

Espada's Yard - best BBQ in Belize!


Downtown Placencia



Amy

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